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Moonlit Amalfi Coast view with an illuminated tree in Praiano
Destination diary · Italy · June 2026

Naples & the
Amalfi Coast

From perfectly paced tasting menus to pasta that tastes like Praiano itself, these are the dining experiences and travel tips I keep coming back to.

Traveling here? Start with my picks.

Four restaurants. Four different reasons to go.

My tiers are personal reflections, not numbered rankings or judgments of a restaurant's objective worth. What matters to me is the interplay of chef identity, extraordinary cooking, hospitality, storytelling, and a sense of place.

✨ Enchanted · Full review & original photography

Un Piano nel Cielo: A Little Piece of Heaven

36-Egg Yolk Tagliolini with Amalfi lemon and prawns

Some restaurants are remembered for the food. Others for the view. Un Piano nel Cielo somehow mastered both.

Seven courses, approximately €280 including wine, extraordinary pasta, a deeply personal moment with Chef Leopoldo Elefante, and sunset over the Mediterranean. I left knowing I'd return.

Read the full review and view my photographs →
✨ Enchanted · Full review & original photography

George Restaurant: A Taste of Naples, Above It All

Mini Neapolitan pizza served at George

A tiny pizza, two unforgettable pasta dishes, and a sunset over the Bay of Naples.

Seven courses and a bottle of Campanian Fiano, approximately €430, impeccable service, and whimsical sweets celebrating Naples. An evening I would recommend, even as I save my next splurge for new experiences.

Read the full review and view my photographs →
💎 Bejeweled · Full review & original photography

Il Refettorio: A Little Piece of Paradise on the Amalfi Coast

An unforgettable evening at Il Refettorio overlooking the Amalfi Coast

Beautiful coastal views, wonderful pasta, and a service team whose warmth stayed with me.

A €190 tasting menu, a €20 glass of wine, and approximately €150 in round trip transport from Praiano. The setting and hospitality made this a Bejeweled evening even if the travel cost means I am unlikely to return.

Read the full review and view my photographs →
🩷 New Romantics · Full review & original photography

Kasai: The Pasta That Brought Me Back Three Times

Homemade tagliolini with truffles at Kasai in Praiano

Three visits. One unforgettable plate of homemade truffle pasta. And a restaurant that made me feel at home in Praiano.

A short, steep walk from my hotel led to spectacular terrace views, warm hospitality, a wonderful chocolate tart, and exceptional value. My pasta, dessert, and glass of wine came to approximately €43.

Read the full review and view my photographs →
Explore the destination · Naples

While You're in Naples

Naples isn't a city that tries to impress you with polished perfection, and that's part of its charm. It's energetic, chaotic in the best way, and full of history, art, football and food.

The Naples city sign with Castel Nuovo behind it
A line outside Pizzeria da Michele in Naples
🏛️ National Archaeological Museum
See remarkable artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
🍕 Eat the pizza
You're in the birthplace of Neapolitan pizza. This is not the time to count carbohydrates.
🚶 Walk the streets
Let yourself explore the lively historic neighborhoods.
⚽ Maradona murals
See how deeply football and Diego Maradona are woven into Naples' identity.
🗿 The Veiled Christ
Visit the extraordinary sculpture at Sansevero Chapel. Book ahead if you can.
☕ Espresso
Don't forget a proper Neapolitan coffee break.
🏨 Where I Stayed: Napoli Squares Suites
I stayed at Napoli Squares Suites and would happily recommend it. The location was fantastic, the staff were incredible, and so much of what I wanted to see was within walking distance. I also felt very safe during my stay, which made exploring Naples on foot feel easy and enjoyable.

My travel take: Spend a day discovering Naples, then use it as a wonderful jumping off point for the Amalfi Coast. If your budget is already stretched by the coast, enjoy the pizza and the city without feeling you need another expensive tasting menu.

For a special splurge in Naples, read my George Restaurant review →

Explore the destination · Amalfi Coast

While You're on the Amalfi Coast

Spectacular views are only part of the experience. Make time to explore the coastline, bring your appetite, and if you are deciding where to stay, I would seriously consider Praiano as your base.

Compared with Positano, Praiano felt calmer, less touristy and more affordable to me, even in peak season. It still made it easy to reach plenty of the Amalfi Coast by bus, but it felt more relaxed and livable at the end of each day.

I stayed at Hotel Il Pino and would happily recommend it. My balcony overlooked the Amalfi Coast, the staff was wonderful, and they could help arrange excursions, which made the whole stay feel even easier.

The breathtaking Amalfi Coast and Positano from a mountain hiking trail
A moonlit coastal view and illuminated pine tree at night
🏡 Stay in Praiano
For me, it was a better base than Positano: quieter, less touristy and easier on the budget.
🚌 Use the bus
It is not glamorous, but it can get you to a lot of the Amalfi Coast without paying for constant private transfers.
🏨 Hotel Il Pino
Affordable by Amalfi Coast standards, with lovely balconies and a staff that can help book excursions.
🥾 Hike the Path of the Gods
Bring good shoes and water. The views are worth every step.
⛵ Take a boat ride
See the cliffs and villages from the Mediterranean.
🪜 Prepare for steps
Praiano is beautiful, but the staircases are no joke.
🍋 Bring your appetite
Seafood, pasta, Amalfi lemons and memorable local restaurants are part of the fun.

My travel take: If you want the Amalfi Coast beauty without feeling swallowed by Positano prices and crowds, Praiano is a wonderful compromise. And if you stay at Hotel Il Pino, let the staff help take some of the planning off your plate.

Read my Un Piano nel Cielo review →